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Why You Need Our Services
Heating and cooling ("space conditioning") account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. About 20% goes for heating water. On the other hand, lighting and appliances and everything else account for only 10 to 30% of the energy used in most residences. It makes good sense to turn lights and appliances off when they are not needed, and you'll save even more on your energy costs if your reduce the amount of energy needed for heating and cooling.
Unless your home was constructed with special attention to energy efficiency, adding insulation will probably reduce your utility bills. Much of the existing housing stock in the United States is not insulated to the best level. Older homes are likely to use more energy than newer homes, leading to very high heating and air-conditioning bills. Even if you own a new home, adding insulation may save enough money in reduced utility bills to pay for itself within a few years, continue to save you money for as long as you own the home, and increase the resale value of your house.
It is most important to:
- Insulate your attic to the recommended level, including the attic door, or hatch cover.
- Provide the recommended level of insulation under floors above unheated spaces, around walls in a heated basement or unventilated crawl space, and on the edges of slabs-on-grade.
- Use the recommended levels of insulation for exterior walls for new house construction. When remodeling or re-siding your house, consider using the levels recommended for new construction in your existing walls.
The Crucial Role of Thermal Insulation
Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes. Insulation saves money and our nation's limited energy resources. It can also make your house more comfortable by helping to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the house. Walls, ceilings, and floors will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Insulation can also act as a sound absorber or barrier, keeping noise levels down.
It is possible to add insulation to almost any house. You may be able to do the job yourself if the structural framing is accessible--for instance, in unfinished attics or under the floor over an unheated space. Or, you may prefer to hire an insulation contractor. In either case, it is important to choose and install the insulation correctly.
The amount of energy you conserve will depend on several factors: your local climate; the size, shape, and construction of your house; the living habits of your family; the type and efficiency of the heating and cooling systems; and the fuel you use. Once the energy savings have paid for the installation cost, energy conserved is money saved--and the annual savings will increase if utility rates go up.
| Examples of Where to Insulate |
- In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below.*
1A attic access door
- In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate ...
2A between the studs of "knee" walls;
2B between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof;
2C ceilings with cold spaces above;
2D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.
- All exterior walls, including ...
3A walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or storage areas;
3B foundation walls above ground level; 3C foundation walls in heated basements, full wall either interior or exterior.
- Floors above cold spaces, such as vented craw spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate ...
4A any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below;
4B slab floors built directly on the ground;**
4C as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of unvented crawl spaces;
4D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.
- Band joists.
- Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors.
*Well-insulated attics, crawl spaces, storage areas, and other enclosed cavities should be ventilated to prevent excess moisture build-up.
**For new construction, slab on grade insulation should be installed to the extent required by building codes, or greater.
| Types of Insulation--Basic Forms |
| Form |
Method of Installation |
Where Applicable |
Advantages |
| Blankets: Batts or Rolls
|
Fitted between studs, joists and beams |
All unfinished walls, floors and ceilings |
Do-it-yourself
Suited for standard stud and joist spacing, which is relatively free
from obstructions |
Loose-Fill (blown-in) or Spray-applied
- Rock wool
- Fiber glass
- Cellulose
- Polyurethane foam
|
Blown into place or spray applied by special equipment |
Enclosed existing wall cavities or open new wall cavities
Unfinished attic floors and hard to reach places |
Commonly used insulation for retrofits (adding insulation to
existing finished areas)
Good for irregularly shaped areas and around obstructions |
Rigid Insulation
- Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS)
- Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS or beadboard)
- Polyurethane foam
- Polyisocyanurate foam
|
Interior applications: Must be covered with 1/2-inch gypsum
board or other building-code approved material for fire safety
Exterior
applications: Must
be covered with
weather-proof
facing |
Basement walls
Exterior walls under
finishing (Some foam
boards include a foil
facing which will act as
a vapor retarder. Please
read the discussion
about where to place, or
not to place, a vapor
retarder)
Unvented low slope
roofs |
High insulating value for
relatively little thickness
Can block thermal short
circuits when installed
continuously over frames or
joists. |
Reflective Systems
- Foil-faced paper
- Foil-faced polyethylene bubbles
- Foil-faced plastic film
- Foil-faced cardboard
|
Foils, films, or papers: Fitted between wood-frame studs joists,
and beams |
Unfinished ceilings, walls, and floors |
Do-it-yourself
All suitable for framing at standard spacing. Bubble-form suitable if framing
is irregular or if obstructions are present
Effectiveness depends on spacing and heat flow direction |
Loose-Fill (poured in)
Vermiculite or Perlite |
not currently used for home insulation, but may be found in older homes |
not currently used for home insulation, but may be found in older homes |
not currently used for home insulation, but may be found in older homes |
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